Thursday, 9 June 2011

FOLLOWING THE BRICK TRAIL

It was time I earned my keep!  Following my little whizz around Byzantian ruins with Trici, last week, the boys felt they had missed out & wanted a tour of their own!!!

Armed with the map she had marked out for me & a picture of what some believe the walls & building location of Byzantium looked like...off we went, leaving the current location of the Hippodrome, for the remains of the walls of the ancient Hippodrome!(Photo no:2) Getting excited about echoes of past arches, snatches of the telltale narrow bricks, and marvelling at the recycling of generations since, as layer upon layer of building debris reveal the variety of reincarnations this wall had had...we meandered around narrow roads to see the whole curvacious shape.


Then we traversed downhill darting through the quickly congesting traffic, to the 'Little Aya Sophia'. This gem is a Mosque, currently in use, built onto the remains of the ancient SS Sergious & Bacchus Church, which was built during Justinian's reign. Inside we witnessed yet another treasure, beautiful patterning painted around window alcoves & walls, leading to a exquisite cupola.(Photo no:4) Then on a small platform we were able to see the greek inscription from the early church. It is one of those places that deserves to be looked after. After a quick look at the Medrese, where there were a group of students who seemed to be involved in some serious study & discussion, we went in search of the ruins seen from the roadside.  Some think they also belong to SS Sergious & Bacchus, but if the map of old Sultanahmet is to believed...they are probably ruins of SS Peter & Paul, as the two Churches were, allegedly, cojoined with another Palace, named Hormisdis. Whilst looking at the brick work, we were made aware by one of the homeless residents, not to come any closer.  There was no threat, just enough noise, to let us know we were trespassing...it was time for a tea break anyway!

The Marmara cafe looks out over the ruins of the inside of Bucoleon Palace. It is lined with rugs & Kilims & has a stunning view from it's balcony, of not only the ruins, but the Marmara sea & all the boats that ply it! (It also only has a squat toilet, which we wont talk about here!!!!)

 Having been revived & enjoyed some shade, we set off back down
the hill, to view the ruins from the other side.(Photo no;5)  Standing where the waters of the Marmara once lapped against the walls, we were able to get a sense of the size of the Palace, & the structure. From here we just followed the remains of old walls all the way around to current day Topkapi, enjoying debate about which bricks were genuine & which not....and delighting in discovering glimpses of decorative work, including brick work on an old & long forgotten church. (Top picture!)

I havent mentioned much about the weather in this blog! Before leaving Australia, we had done a 10 day weather google for Istanbul & packed according to what it predicted ie; low 20's & cool in the evenings. That forecast was accurate...about the evenings, but the days have been high 20's & low 30's & thick jeans & long sleeved T-shirts havent really been very comfortable! I have managed to buy a linen shirt which is a little more  breathable, however it doesnt take long before we are seriously wilting & needing shade & refreshment! It was with enormous relief then, that we made our way into the Gulhane Park which surrounds Topkapi Palace & found a tea garden...with magnificent views out over the Bospherous! We had walked from one Palace to another, & from here, we could look across the water at the magnificent Dolmabahce of yesterday's excursion.

Recognising just how fortunate we were, we could tolerate the heat...especially when escape from it meant stopping in places like this,with water views!!

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