CALL TO PRAYER

Not even earplugs can block out the sound of the Muezzin calling the faithful to prayer at 5 am this morning!  And to make sure that the tonal rhythmn of that call didnt sooth the faithful back to sleep...the seagulls followed up with a call of their own; starting as a chicken crow, adjusting to a duck honk, building to an almost kookaburra laugh and reaching crescendo with a cackling-mad-woman.  We wont be sleeping in, in this neighbourhood!

First port of call today was The Blue Mosque, starting with a look at it from the rooftop terrace of our Hotel! On site & with head covered & shoes removed we entered this very special place of prayer.  The name derives from the myriad of predominantly blue, tiles that adorn this exquisite place. Built from 1609-16 it is obviously lovingly maintained because it is as stunning as if new. We took some time craning our necks to take in the decorative features of the cupolas & marvel at the incredible weight the 'elephant leg' columns must be. It must have taken a miracle to get them on site!

Exiting in a different location to where we have entered, we caught a magnificent look at Aya Sophia, before heading to Topkapi Palace. Already the queues were forming,so we joined the throng & made our way into the extensive complex. More a museum than an actual Palace that you can walk through & see how the residents lived, we went from room to room viewing the various treasures on display.  We were interested in the Sultans outfits, paneled coats with excessively long arms & VERY narrow necks.  The pantaloons were HUGE & it would have been useful to see a diagram/example as to HOW they were actually worn. The fabrics were exquisite, but my favourite had to be the Talismanic shirts! They were completely covered in symbols and mathematical equations that would prevent harm to the wearer...namely assassination!

From there to jewel encrusted thrones, to dagger displays and more emeralds than I have ever seen in my life! We saw beautiful Koran covers, decorative jewel 'hat pins' for turbins, and vessels made of crystal.  Outside, we admired walls of decorative tile & lush expanses of garden, with magnificent views of the Bospherous & Golden Horn.

A slight reprieve in the perfectly located Konyali cafe for our first taste of apple tea & a look out on the hectic waterway where the Golden Horn & Bospherous collide, then into the Harem. 

The Harem was VERY beautiful, interesting & sobering!  It is beyond our comprehension why anyone would feel honored to have their daughters imprisoned in this decorative, but never-the-less VERY confined space! We couldnt help but think of our own daughter & shudder! The tiles were stunning...I think I have taken over a hundred photos of tiles today! (Not all from the Harem!)However, it was a prison... of sorts.

We were very pleased to leave, but glad we had taken the time to wrestle alongside other 'visitors' to see this impressive place. We would have liked to follow this up with visiting the Archeological Museum next door, but alas, today they were closed! Therefore we just decided to walk in the general direction of the Galata bridge.  This aimless, mapless (well not quite) wandering took us into a few places where I am sure visitors are not expected to venture!!  Never the less, we saw the lives of the people in action, going about their work, just as 'local' people do wherever they are in the world & regardless of who is walking by!! Eventually we got to the Eminou docks & surrounded by ENORMOUS boats & ferries coming and going we did what plenty of locals were doing, bought a freshly grilled fish sandwich & sat on the seawall to eat it! YUMMM!  Apart from a few bones, it was deliciously served in a bread roll with fresh onion & lettuce & sprinkled with salt & lemon juice!  There are a number of restaurants under the bridge, all offering food delights or beer!  What we were so enamoured with, was looking up to see the the fishing rods of those ON the bridge, suddenly twitch & start pulling up fresh fish! It was almost like a curtain of fish on lines!

We went underground to cross the road & experienced those market stalls that one sees everywhere, with lots of cheap merchandise & trinkets.  When we emerged on the otherside, we realised we were very close to the Spice Bazaar, so in we trekked! FABULOUS arrays of dried fruits; walnuts stuffed into figs, dried eggplant, plump apricots...& turkish delight of all flavours, not to mention spices piled into pyramids from one shop to another! It was overwhelming & not really a place we wanted to stop too long for now, so we pressed on.  Onwards & upwards on the cobble stoned ancient streets, between closely packed buildings, to the Rustem Pasha Mosque.  What a little gem this is.  Inside the tiles are MIND BLOWING! The architect, Sinan, wanted to create the effect that inside, the Mosque was a Garden of Paradise.  I think he achieved it.  It was a rare treat to be present when practising Moslems were saying prayers, including a young boy, there with his Dad, reciting from the Koran. What upset me, was the rudeness of the travel groups who came in.  I think I will have to write a book on 'Package Tour Etiquette', because it REALLY bugs me when people are asked to be quiet & respectful, and they ARENT! And because I WAS being quiet & respectful, I couldnt tell them off, I could only GLARE & that just isnt as effective!!!

We were in a Mosque frame of mind, so we meandered our way up the hill to the Suleymaniye Mosque. This is a huge complex, a large part of which is undergoing extensive renovation.  This too was designed by Sinan & is another masterpiece of beauty. Outside we set off in search of Suleymaniye's tomb, passing enroute, a cemetary.  The beautifully inscribed marble pillars marking each grave site, were interspersed with flowering mauve irises! And guarded by cats...lots of them!  And we have reason to believe...fleas!

It had been a fair quantity of walking & we needed some refreshment so popped into the sunken garden area of the Mosque's old kitchen for a cup of tea..turkish style in little tulip shaped glasses! So much more palatable than the excessively sweet apple tea of earlier!

Again, we started meandering amidst streets clearly off the tourist trail.  Enjoying the sight of fruit sellers planting themselves on the road to sell their wares, oblivious of the cars who madly try to squeeze past! Our goal was the Forum of Theodosious & it took us a little while to find this relic of Roman times! (Sometimes it IS useful to have 2 different maps of the same place!)

The Forum is really a graveyard of broken & crumbling roman columns! Wouldnt we love to smuggle one back on the plane for our garden!!  We particularly wanted to see the columns with the peacock feather motives. We had seen one of these in the Basillica Cistern the day before, which had originally came from the Forum, so it was good to find the source!!

Our feet were complaining & it was time to head down hill to our Hotel to take the weight off! Enroute we happened upon the Spora Festival, which we came to the conclusion was a festival of regional dances & music performed by school children!  With the happy sounds & the sight of brightly coloured costumes in our minds, we continued on. Stopping only to sit at a nearby table, on the road, for a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, served by a toothless gentleman eager to serve,so we could watch the world pass on by.

What a great day!